So You Want to Make Shoes — Where Do You Begin?
Shoemaking is one of the most rewarding crafts you can learn. There's something deeply satisfying about creating a pair of shoes from scratch — choosing the leather, shaping the last, stitching the welt. But if you're just starting out, the sheer number of tools and techniques can feel overwhelming.
The good news is that you don't need a full cobbler's workshop to get started. This guide covers the essential tools every beginner shoemaker needs, what each one does, and how to build your kit without breaking the bank.
The Essential Beginner Shoemaker's Toolkit
1. A Shoemaker's Last
The last is the foot-shaped form that your shoe is built around. It determines the shape, fit, and style of the finished shoe. As a beginner, start with a standard last in your own shoe size — you can experiment with different lasts as your skills develop.
2. A Lasting Hammer or Mallet
A good hammer is one of the most-used tools in shoemaking. You'll use it for lasting (pulling the leather tight over the last), nailing, and general assembly. A rubber mallet is ideal for beginners as it's less likely to damage delicate leather.
Our Rubber Hammer Mallet Shoe Making Tool is a great starting point — it gives you the right weight and control for lasting work without the risk of marking your materials.
3. Lasting Pliers
Lasting pliers are used to grip and pull the leather tightly over the last before nailing or gluing. They give you the mechanical advantage needed to get a smooth, wrinkle-free upper. This is one tool you really can't substitute — a good pair makes lasting dramatically easier.
4. Awls for Stitching
An awl is used to pierce holes in leather for hand stitching. For shoemaking, you'll want a curved awl for stitching the welt and a straight awl for general piercing work.
We stock a beautiful range of hand-crafted awls perfect for shoemaking:
- Vintage Hand Sewing Awls by George Barnsley — a legendary British brand trusted by cobblers for generations
- A Collection of Vintage Hand Sewing Awls — Plastic and Wooden Shanks — a great variety set for beginners exploring different styles
5. Needles and Waxed Thread
Hand stitching in shoemaking uses a two-needle technique with waxed linen thread. The wax helps the thread grip and resist moisture. You'll need blunt-tipped harness needles — sharp needles are not used for hand stitching leather as they can cut the fibres.
6. A Skiving Knife
Skiving means thinning the edges of leather so that seams lie flat and don't create uncomfortable ridges inside the shoe. A sharp skiving knife is essential for any work involving leather uppers.
7. Bone Folder or Creaser
Used to crease and fold leather cleanly, and to burnish edges. A bone folder helps you get crisp, professional-looking folds on your upper pieces.
8. Shoe Repair Adhesive
A strong contact adhesive is used throughout shoemaking — for attaching insoles, bonding the upper to the welt, and fixing soles. Make sure you use a proper shoe adhesive rather than general-purpose glue.
The Easiest Way to Start — A Starter Kit
If you'd rather not source each tool individually, our Shoemakers Tools Starter Kit brings together the essential tools you need to begin your shoemaking journey in one convenient package. It's the fastest way to get everything you need without the guesswork.
What About Lasts and Materials?
Once you have your tools, you'll need:
- A last — in your shoe size to start
- Leather for the upper — vegetable-tanned leather is easiest to work with for beginners
- An insole — we stock cushioned insoles for shoemaking and steel shanks insoles for added structure
- A sole — leather or rubber depending on the style you're making
How Long Does It Take to Make a Pair of Shoes?
For a complete beginner, your first pair might take 20–40 hours spread over several sessions. Don't be discouraged — every pair teaches you something new, and your speed will increase dramatically with practice. Many experienced shoemakers can complete a pair in 8–12 hours.
Ready to Start Your Shoemaking Journey?
Browse our full range of shoemaking tools and materials at mukshy — and remember, free UK shipping on orders over £40, so it's easy to stock up on everything you need in one go.
Have a question about which tools are right for your project? Feel free to get in touch — we're passionate about the craft and happy to help.