How to Use a Stitching Pony & Clam for Hand Sewing Leather
A stitching pony and stitching clam are essential hand tools for anyone working with leather. Both tools hold your leather work securely while you stitch by hand, freeing both hands to control the needle and thread. Used by shoemakers, cobblers, saddlers and leathercraft workers for centuries, they remain the most effective way to achieve tight, even hand stitching.
What You'll Need
- Wooden stitching pony or stitching clam
- Waxed linen or polyester thread
- Two harness needles
- Stitching awl or pricking iron
- Leather work piece
Stitching Pony vs Stitching Clam — Which to Use?
- Stitching Pony (15 inch) — best for smaller leather goods, shoe repairs, wallets, belts and detailed work. Compact and easy to reposition.
- Stitching Clam (29 inch) — best for larger pieces, longer stitching runs, welts and boot uppers. The extra length gives more leverage and stability.
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1 — Prepare Your Leather
Mark and punch your stitch holes using a stitching awl or pricking iron before clamping. It is much easier to punch holes before the leather is held in the tool.
Step 2 — Set Up the Stitching Pony
Sit on a firm chair. Place the stitching pony between your legs with the jaws at the top. Position your leather work between the cushioned jaws at the point where you want to begin stitching. Apply leg pressure to close the jaws firmly on the work.
Step 3 — Set Up the Stitching Clam
For the clam, sit with the tool between your legs, jaws uppermost. The weight and length of the clam means leg pressure alone keeps the jaws firmly closed. Position the leather at the stitching point and apply pressure.
Step 4 — Thread Your Needles
Cut a length of waxed thread approximately 3–4 times the length of the seam. Thread a needle on each end. This is the saddle stitch method — one needle on each end of the thread.
Step 5 — Begin Stitching
Push the first needle through the first stitch hole. Pull the thread through until equal lengths remain on each side. Then pass each needle through successive holes in opposite directions — one needle from each side — pulling firmly after each stitch to lock the thread.
Step 6 — Finish the Seam
At the end of the seam, backstitch through the last 2–3 holes to lock the thread. Trim the ends close and burnish with a bone folder or lighter flame to seal.
Tips from the Workshop
- Always wax your thread before stitching — it strengthens the thread and helps it bed into the leather
- The leather-cushioned jaws protect your work from marks — no need to wrap the leather
- Reposition the work in the jaws as you progress along a long seam
- For very thick leather, open the jaws slightly and use a mallet to tap the work into position