Hand sewing leather welts is one of the most satisfying and durable methods of attaching a shoe’s upper to its sole. Used by traditional shoemakers and cobblers for centuries, the technique relies on wire needles and waxed thread to create a tight, locked stitch that outlasts machine alternatives. This guide walks you through the full process.
What you’ll need
- 2 steel wire needles
- Waxed thread (braided, ready-waxed)
- A welting awl or stitching awl
- Beeswax or sticky wax
- Sharp scissors or knife
Making your bristle threads
Wire needles don’t thread like conventional needles — instead, the thread is attached by creating a bristle end:
- Cut your required length of thread for the sewing work.
- Using a sharp knife, taper the ends of the thread for approximately 7cm.
- Using a pointed tool, begin to separate the tapered threads into two strands.
- Apply wax to the two strands.
- Pass the two strands in opposite directions through the eye of the needle.
- Tie a knot using the two strands and the thread.
- Twist the tapered strands onto the main thread.
- Apply sticky wax to bind the tapered ends firmly to the main thread.
- Repeat for the second needle.
Sewing the welt — step by step
- Prepare your awl holes — use a welting awl to pierce through the welt and insole at even intervals, typically 5–6mm apart.
- Start your stitch — push the first needle through the first hole from left to right, pulling through until equal thread remains on both sides.
- Cross stitch — push the second needle through the same hole from right to left, crossing over the first thread inside the hole. This locks each stitch.
- Pull tight — pull both needles firmly and evenly to seat the stitch. The waxed thread grips the leather and holds tension.
- Advance — move to the next awl hole and repeat, maintaining consistent tension throughout.
- Finish — on the final stitch, pass both needles back through the last two holes and tie off securely. Apply a little wax to seal.
Tips for best results
- Keep your thread waxed throughout — it reduces friction and helps the thread grip.
- Work on slightly damp leather for easier awl penetration.
- Consistent tension is key — uneven pulling creates a wavy stitch line.
- Our hand sewing kit includes 2 wire needles and 10m of ready-waxed thread — everything you need to get started.